I'll start with the Cherry and then move on to the Oak. I've got some Red Oak to work on and some Cherry. And the light weight - it's a dream to handle. With the narrow kerf bar and chain set up, it just goes right thru the branches and trunks with its 2.0HP. During the break-in period, I thought I'd give it something a bit softer to chew on. I had some aspen I had to thin, so I started out with those. I did adjust the chain once so far and I loosened the nuts, tightened the bar, and tightened the nuts just like I have with every saw that I've had over the last 50 some years! it starts soooooo easy (it's a small engine) and 2. Not saying that there is anything wrong with those features, but they do add a little weight and 1. I am glad that I didn't get the MS180 C-BE with the Easy Start and Tool-Less chain adjuster. If the 435 had done that, I'd still own it! And I need to give it some time, but there are no puddles of bar oil under the saw after it has sat - whew! I am totally happy with the saw and also so relieved. I've run two tankfull's through it and from the very first start it started right up and rev'ed right up. I don't want to bash the Husqvarna 435 - I have a Husqvarna 350 and love it!!, but this little Stihl is a dream. Well the new MS180 has tipped over three 10-12' diameter Aspen and made them into nice 22' lengths to feed the Oslo at some point in the future! In the electric section of the Stihl catalog there is a note: 'Warning for Corded-Electric and Battery Chain Saw Users - The fibers (in chaps) may not stop the sprocket on most corded-electric chain saws and some battery-powered chainsaws because of the constant high torque. One last thing on electrics is that there are some safety issues with chaps not being effective in stopping an electric - corded or battery-powered. And since I'll use this saw for limbing and then switch to my bigger saw for the wood cutting, I wanted to keep the same 'feel'. I really don't need to learn new things anymore unless I have to or really want to. I'm an old guy and I know how a gas chainsaw works and feels. The big reason I decided not to go electric is because it's different. But I need gas anyway for the big saw and my gas saws have always started for me, so I couldn't see spending that much money. I did consider it trying to weigh the benefit of not needed to have gas, no starting issues - ever, etc. By the time you buy the saw, the battery (or batteries), and the charger, it's easy to get to $500. Check, clean and replace all the fuel system parts before moving into the internal engine, as gas problems create a majority of starting problems.Click to expand.That's a great suggestion - you will get a chuckle out of why I opted out of an electric. Then, press down the primer valve several times if your chainsaw has one, and set the master control to the cold start setting.Дirty or clogged fuel tanks, dirty fuel filters and lines, loose fuel hoses, dirty air filters and a dirty carburetor can all restrict fuel flow. To start a Stihl chainsaw, start by pushing the chain brake forward to activate it and removing the cover over the chain and bar. Keeping this in consideration, how do I start my Stihl chainsaw for the first time? Dry off the spark plug and refit it back in place. Deactivate the choke by pushing in the control then pull the starter cord 6-8 times as you press in the throttle control. Similarly, you may ask, do you start a chainsaw with the brake on?ДЄlways start your chainsaw with the chain brake engaged so the chain does not move.Д«eside above, how do you start a chainsaw that won't start? To solve this problem, open the spark plug hole with it facing away from you to drain all the fuel in the tank.

Stihl ms180c manual